In just a few years, the persimmon has gone from being a somewhat forgotten fruit in the fruit bowl to becoming a sought-after ingredient for those who enjoy experimenting in the kitchen and taking advantage of the seasonal fruits. Its meaty texture, its natural sweetness, and its versatility They have made it the star of salads, carpaccios and even surprising proposals such as a sausage made almost exclusively with this fruit.
Within this fruit revolution, the proposal of Joel Castanyé, chef of the La Boscana restaurant (Bellvís, Lleida), stands out strongly, having taken the persimmon a step further. Their “persimmon sausage” is a nod to the world of traditional charcuterie.But turning the concept on its head: here there is almost no meat, but fruit treated as if it were a cured meat, with its drying times and its maturation process.
La Boscana and the role of persimmon in haute cuisine
At La Boscana, they don't limit themselves to using fruit as a dessert or mere garnish; More than half of the tasting menu revolves around fruit.which then take center stage on the plate with technique and creativity. This radical approach has earned them a second Michelin star, solidifying Joel Castanyé's position as one of the chefs pushing the boundaries of contemporary cuisine.
Lleida is a land with a very long tradition in pig farming and sausage making. Charcuterie is part of the gastronomic DNA of the provincewhich is also among the typical autumn and winter foodsAnd that is precisely why Castanyé wanted to pay homage to that know-how, but by transferring it to his field of research: fruits.
The starting point was an almost provocative question: "Could you make sausage using only fruit?"From there, a constant search for producers and varieties began until they found the key piece: the persimmon grown in Lleida by Montse Baró, a local producer who works with this fruit, more traditionally associated with the Valencian Community.
What makes persimmon so special for this type of preparation is its composition. It has less water content than other fruits and a firm pulp.This makes it an ideal candidate for long drying and controlled maturation processes, like other autumn fruits, without falling apart or becoming excessively cloying.
Why persimmon is perfect for making sausage
When fruit is processed as if it were a deli product, there are several technical factors that make a difference. In the case of persimmon, its internal structure behaves almost like that of soft meat. When it is slowly dehydrated: it concentrates flavor, maintains some elasticity and acquires a texture reminiscent of a date, but somewhat more tender.
Another key point is sweetness management. As it dries, the persimmon loses some of its most direct sweetness.It retains a more complex and balanced flavor that isn't as cloying as other dried fruits. This allows for experimentation with mild fermentations and savory seasonings without the final result being overpowering.
Working with pre-treatments – such as lime baths or the use of ascorbic acid – is also important. These steps help control oxidation and strengthen the pulp structure. and ensure that the fruit withstands prolonged drying without spoiling or becoming brittle.
In the case of La Boscana's persimmon sausage, it is oven-dried at a low temperature -around 80ºC- for about 12 hours, until the fruit reaches that sought-after intermediate texture. The goal is for the persimmon to resemble a juicy date but be slightly more flexible., ready to become the filling of a very particular fruity “sausage”.
Professional persimmon sausage recipe: step by step
Joel Castanyé's persimmon sausage making process is complex and designed for a professional kitchen with a ripening chamber, but it helps to fully understand the potential of this fruit. The following details all the phases of the original recipe., reorganized and explained in more detail so you can see the whole process.
1. Prepare the lime bath
The first phase consists of preparing a lime bath that will help strengthen the skin and external structure of the persimmon. Only two ingredients are needed: food-grade lime and waterwhich are mixed until the lime is completely dissolved, leaving the solution ready for later use.
This mixture is set aside while the fruit is being processed. Its main function is to improve the consistency of the fruit before subjecting it to cooking and subsequent drying, making it withstand the processes better without falling apart or losing its shape.
2. Treatment and cooking of persimmon
Once the lime bath is prepared, the persimmons are cleaned and peeled. To prevent the pulp from oxidizing and darkening Upon contact with air, they are first quickly immersed in water with ascorbic acid, a very common antioxidant in professional kitchens.
After this first bath, the persimmons are transferred directly to the lime bath for about 20 minutes. This immersion time allows the fruit to become firmer. at a superficial level, without aggressively altering its flavor or essence.
Once this phase is complete, the fruits are rinsed well to remove any remaining lime solution and then cooked. After cooking, they are carefully drained. to remove excess water, preparing them for subsequent drying.
The drying process is carried out in an oven, at about 80°C, for approximately 12 hours. The exact point is reached when the persimmon acquires a texture similar to a date.Although somewhat softer and juicier, without becoming too hard. At this point, the fruit is set aside to be used in the sausage filling.
3. Preparation of the sausage filling
Once the persimmon is dry and has the appropriate texture, proceed to prepare the filling. The persimmons are cut into regular cubes of approximately 1 cm by 1 cmso that the inside of the sausage has a uniform and pleasant bite.
These cubes are mixed with shio koji - a Japanese fermented preparation made from rice or cereals inoculated with the koji fungus - and a touch of salt. Shio koji adds complexity, umami, and promotes certain mild fermentations. that transform the fruit and give it a very particular depth of flavor.
The mixture of dried persimmon, shio koji and salt is stirred well until all the cubes are evenly coated. This preparation is left to rest so that the flavors can meld. and the koji begins to act on the fruit before stuffing it.
4. Preparing the casings for stuffing
To achieve that traditional sausage appearance, natural pig casings are used. These intestines undergo a cleaning and deodorizing process Made with water and white vinegar. The mixture is prepared by dissolving the vinegar in plenty of water.
The intestines are submerged in this solution and left to soak for about 24 hours. This procedure is repeated three times in total.Changing both the water and vinegar in each batch, in order to ensure that the casings are thoroughly cleaned and ready to receive the fruit filling.
After the last immersion, they are removed, rinsed with plenty of clean water and left to dry. Once well drained and dry, the tripe is set aside. waiting for the moment to stuff the persimmon mixture.
5. Exterior seasoning and assembly
In addition to the filling, there is a mixture of salt, pepper and koji powder to work the exterior of the sausage. These ingredients are used to rub the surface of the pieces. once stuffed, contributing to the formation of the rind and the development of aromas during maturation.
Wearing gloves, the mixture of diced persimmon, shio koji and salt is introduced into the pig intestines. It's important to keep pressing as it fills up to expel any air bubbles that may be trapped inside.
The intestines are filled almost completely, leaving about three fingers free at the end. Using a thread or twine, make a firm knot to seal the sausage well and prevent the filling from shifting or coming out during drying.
Once the pieces are closed, they are sprinkled with the mixture of salt, pepper and koji powder, until the entire surface is covered. This coating acts as a kind of external seasoning. which also collaborates in the controlled fermentation of the product.
6. Drying and maturation of persimmon sausage
The last step, and one of the most delicate, is maturation. The sausages are hung in a curing chamber., at a very stable temperature of around 11,5 ºC and with a relative humidity of approximately 73%.
The minimum maturation time is between 7 and 9 weeks, although it may vary slightly depending on the thickness of the sausage and the actual humidity of the chamber. During this period, the sausage loses some of its waterThe flavors concentrate and the koji finishes doing its work on the natural sugars of the persimmon.
An interesting detail of this recipe is that it is recommended to hang these persimmon sausages in the same chamber where meat sausages are cured. The microbiological environment of the chamber - yeasts, molds and beneficial bacteria - It contributes to developing a much more complex aromatic profile, closer to that of a fuet or a salchichón, even though the base is fruit.
In service, the sausage is presented whole to show the piece and then a thin slice is cut. It is usually served with just a pinch of extra salt and pepper., letting the flavor of the ripened persimmon and the work of the koji be the true protagonists.
Persimmon carpaccio with ham, cheese and arugula
Beyond haute cuisine and complex ripening processes, persimmon also shines in much simpler and quicker recipes. A perfect example is persimmon carpaccio with ham, cheese and arugulaA fresh combination that works wonderfully as an autumn starter and in other autumn salads.
For this recipe, varieties such as Sharoni or Persimon persimmon are usually chosen, which have a firm pulp and can be cut into thin slices without falling apart. The sweet contrast of the persimmon with the salty note of the cured ham and the intensity of the cheese creates a very balanced bite.
The list of ingredients is simple: a ripe but firm persimmon, slices of cured ham (ideally Iberian or of good quality), Grana Padano cheese or another similar cured cheese, fresh arugula and a vinaigrette made with Dijon mustard, extra virgin olive oil, apple cider vinegar, salt and pepper. With very few ingredients you can create a beautiful and tasty dish.
To slice persimmon, the ideal tool is a mandoline, which allows you to obtain very thin and even slices. If one is not available, a sharp knife can be used.Although the finish won't be as fine. The mandoline, in this type of raw preparation, makes quite a difference in texture and presentation.
Once the persimmon is peeled, the slices are cut and placed flat on the serving plate, overlapping them slightly. On top are distributed strips of ham, arugula leaves and shavings of cheeseso that each bite has a little bit of all the components.
The vinaigrette is prepared by emulsifying the mustard with the vinegar and olive oil, adjusting the salt and pepper to taste. Pour it over the carpaccio just before servingso that the arugula leaves stay fresh and the persimmon doesn't get too soft.
This carpaccio is ideal for those "summery autumn" days when you still crave something fresh, but with flavors typical of the season. It also works very well as a light starter in more substantial meals.adding color and a fruity touch that is appreciated among so many more substantial dishes.
Persimmon salad with ham and mozzarella
Another very effective way to take advantage of persimmon season is to combine it with mozzarella and ham in a salad. The persimmon, fleshy, sweet and juicy, becomes the "gummy candy" of the dish here.softened by the creaminess of the mozzarella and finished with the rich flavor of the ham. This use fits among the autumn fruits usable in fresh recipes.
This salad is built on a balance of three elements: sweet fruit, neutral dairy, and salty sausage. Persimmon adds freshness and natural sweetness, mozzarella provides creaminess, and ham adds intensity.so that no other main ingredient is missed.
The first step is to prepare the elements separately: peel the persimmon and cut it into slices or wedges, as preferred; drain the mozzarella well, which can then be opened in half or torn by hand; and finely chop the chives, which will serve as a final aromatic touch. This way everything is ready for a quick and clean assembly.
The dressing is a vinaigrette that combines Modena vinegar with honey, a pairing that works especially well with persimmon. The acidity of the vinegar balances the sweetness of the fruit and honeyThe extra virgin olive oil adds body to the dish. Freshly ground black pepper and salt complete the dressing.
The salad is assembled simply but very attractively: a slice of persimmon is placed in the center of the plate as a base for the mozzarella, and the rest of the persimmon slices are arranged around it. Finally, the slices of Serrano ham are added on top.Sprinkle with chives and drizzle with Modena and honey vinaigrette.
If you want to add a crunchy touch, you can serve them with croutons or lightly toasted bread. This contrast of textures makes the salad even more interesting., maintaining that autumnal feel but with a very pleasant fresh and light air.
Since persimmons are at their best in autumn, this recipe is perfect for taking advantage of the season. It's a great option for quick but special dinners, or as a light main course accompanied by good bread.
All these preparations show that persimmon offers much more versatility than might appear at first glance. From a sausage matured for weeks in a professional chamber From salads and carpaccios ready in minutes, fruit adapts seamlessly to both haute cuisine and everyday life at home, always providing color, natural sweetness and an unmistakable texture.
