During the Victorian era, the crinoline (also known as crinoline or armer) became a fundamental element of women's wardrobe, representing a unique social and aesthetic structure. It was a rigid cage-like structure, designed to maintain the flared shape of skirts without the need for multiple layers of petticoats. This innovative and controversial fashion item reached its peak between 1855 and 1866, but also became the focus of numerous debates due to the risks and tragedies it caused.
The rise of the crinoline: style and industrial production
The birth of the crinoline coincided with significant technological advances, such as the invention of the sewing machine in the 1850s. This invention allowed crinolines to be mass produced, which contributed to their popularity. In a factory in Sheffield, England, crinolines were produced 8.000 crinolines a day, and yet the demand was not met. Such was its success that, in 1857, the United Kingdom imported 40.000 tons of Swedish steel just to make these garments.
Originally, crinolines were made from materials such as whalebone, wicker, or horsehair, but the transition to steel in 1856 made them more durable. light and economical, which made them accessible to women of all social classesFrom peasants to aristocrats, everyone could wear the crinoline, which became a symbol of modernity and social status.
A liberating design, but full of dangers
In contrast to the narrow empire-style skirts that restricted movement, the crinoline provided greater mobility and ventilationHowever, it also presented serious risks. One of the most common dangers was its inflammability. The fabrics used in the dresses, combined with the voluminous design, acted as wicks in case of contact with fire. In 1858, the New York Times first reported the death of a woman due to her crinoline catching fire.
One of the most tragic episodes related to these garments occurred in the Fire at the Church of the Company in Santiago de Chile in 1863More than 2.000 women perished in this disaster, many of them trapped because their voluminous dresses blocked the exits. This event highlighted the vulnerability of crinoline wearers and exposed the deficiencies in safety in public spaces.
Another notable tragedy was that of sisters Emily and Mary, half-sisters of the famous writer Oscar Wilde. At a ball in 1871, both of their dresses caught fire when they got too close to a fireplace and, due to the difficulty of quickly removing the crinoline, they both died days later. These incidents were not isolated; statistics from the time report up to 3.000 crinoline-related deaths in the UK for a decade.
Social and cultural consequences
In addition to their physical danger, crinolines caused other problems. They often became entangled in carriage wheels, causing falls and injuries. They also challenged the moral values of the victorian eraFor example, their design allowed them to sometimes be lifted by the wind, exposing women's underwear, a fact that caused great scandal in a puritanical society.
Interestingly, the crinoline was also used as a practical tool during the American Civil War. Women would hide weapons, food, and other contraband items under their voluminous skirts, proving that this accessory could serve as a more than aesthetics.
The Decline of the Crinoline
Over time, the popularity of the crinoline began to decline. In the late 1860s, designs evolved into less voluminous structures, such as the bustle, which highlighted only the back of the skirt. Florence Nightingale, a famous nurse and critic of the crinoline, described it as a «absurd costume», pointing out its risks and limitations. In addition, the growing opposition from public opinion and the press contributed to its gradual demise.
The crinoline, however, left a lasting legacy in fashion. In the 1999th century, designers such as Alexander McQueen reinvented the iconic garment to fit a modern context, as he did in XNUMX by introducing visible crinolines under sheer dresses, challenging the norms of the fashion industry.
Today, the crinoline still appears in formal ceremonies, such as wedding dresses, or in cultural traditions such as quinceañera parties in Mexico. However, its function has changed radically, going from an everyday piece to a symbol of ostentation and elegance.
The impact of the crinoline goes beyond fashion, being a reflection of the tensions between the aesthetics, functionality and safety in Victorian-era women's clothing. This garment, loaded with meaning and contradictions, continues to fascinate historians, designers and fashion lovers as a reminder of how fashion can shape — and endanger — society.